Upma's Unlikely Renaissance
Ask a group of people to name their least favourite breakfast and upma will inevitably appear near the top of the list. The complaints are familiar: too salty, too bland, lumpy, glue-like, flavourless. These criticisms are not without basis — poorly made upma is genuinely unpleasant. But this reputation is catastrophically unfair to the dish in its best form.
**Well-made upma** — prepared with good-quality rava, a generous hand with fresh ghee, properly tempered spices, and the right water ratio — is a deeply satisfying, comforting, nutritionally sound breakfast. And Karnataka, with its rich tiffin culture, has developed not one but many variations of upma, each with its own character, regional identity, and devoted following.
What is Upma?
**Upma** (also called *uppittu* in Kannada) is a savoury porridge made by cooking semolina (*rava* or *sooji*) in a spiced, tempered base of water and/or milk. The semolina is first dry-roasted until fragrant, then cooked in boiling liquid that has been tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, urad dal, chana dal, green chillies, and ginger. The result is a soft, cohesive porridge — firm enough to hold shape but tender enough to eat with a spoon.
In the Brahmin kitchen, upma is made without onion. The flavour comes entirely from the tempering — the sizzle of mustard seeds in ghee, the fragrance of fresh curry leaves, the heat of green chillies, and the clean note of grated ginger. This purity of flavour makes the upma both lighter and more nuanced than the onion-heavy commercial version.
The Key to Good Upma
Three things separate exceptional upma from the mediocre kind:
**1. Roasting the rava**: The semolina must be dry-roasted in a pan until it turns slightly golden and smells nutty — about three to four minutes on medium heat. This step develops flavour and prevents the finished upma from becoming sticky.
**2. The tempering**: The ghee must be at the right temperature before the mustard seeds go in — hot enough to make them pop immediately. Chana dal and urad dal go in next and must be fried until golden. Curry leaves go in last before the water, releasing their aromatic oils into the ghee.
**3. The water ratio**: The standard ratio is approximately 2.5 cups of water per cup of rava. Too little water produces dry, granular upma; too much produces a paste. The rava is added to boiling water in the pot while stirring constantly to prevent lumps.
At Shastrys Cafe, upma is made fresh every morning. The rava is roasted fresh rather than stored pre-roasted, preserving the maximum nutty aroma. Pure ghee is used for the tempering, not oil.
Upma Varieties Across Karnataka
1. Rava Upma (Classic)
The base version — fine semolina, ghee tempering, water. Served with coconut chutney. This is the standard Brahmin breakfast upma, clean in flavour and satisfying in its simplicity.
2. Broken Wheat Upma (Godhi Uppittu)
Made from **coarsely broken wheat** rather than semolina. Has a chewier, heartier texture and a higher fibre and protein content. Popular in North Karnataka and in health-conscious households. The longer cooking time required is offset by its superior nutritional profile.
3. Vermicelli Upma (Shavige Uppittu)
**Rice vermicelli** (shavige) replaces semolina. The tempering is identical; the texture is lighter and more strand-like. Popular with children, who enjoy the noodle-like texture. Works well with coconut chutney.
4. Oats Upma
A modern Karnataka adaptation — rolled oats cooked upma-style with the traditional tempering. High in soluble fibre (beta-glucan), which lowers cholesterol. Texture is creamier and softer than rava upma.
5. Beaten Rice Upma (Avalakki Uppittu)
**Thick poha** (flattened rice) prepared upma-style with tempering, turmeric, peanuts, and curry leaves. Lighter than rava upma. Eaten widely for breakfast and evening tiffin. Requires the least cooking time.
6. Upma Kozhukattai
A Brahmin festive preparation — upma-style rava cooked and then steamed in small dumpling shapes. The tempering is similar but the texture is firmer due to the steaming step. Served during festivals and as prasad.
7. Cucumber Upma (Southekayi Uppittu)
A Karnataka-specific summer specialty — grated cucumber is folded into the upma at the end of cooking, adding moisture, freshness, and a cooling quality. The cucumber's water content reduces the amount of water needed in the recipe.
8. Kesari-Upma Combination (Chow Chow Bath)
Not a standalone variety, but one of Bangalore's most famous breakfast combos — sweet **kesari bath** (saffron semolina halwa) served alongside savoury **upma** on the same plate. The contrast of sweet and savoury is quintessentially Bangalorean. (See the separate article on Chow Chow Bath for the full story.)
Nutritional Profile of Rava Upma
Standard rava upma with ghee tempering (one serving, approximately 200g):
Calories: 200–250 kcal
Protein: 5–7g (from rava and dal in tempering)
Carbohydrates: 35–42g
Fat: 6–9g (from ghee)
Fibre: 2–3g
Iron: 1.5–2mg
Upma has a moderate glycemic index — lower than plain white rice but higher than lentil-heavy dishes. Adding more dal to the tempering (both chana dal and urad dal) increases the protein and fibre content meaningfully.
Upma at Shastrys Cafe
At Shastrys Cafe in Kodigehalli, rava upma is a standard morning item — available from opening until mid-morning. It is made without onion in the Brahmin tradition, with a generous ghee tempering of mustard seeds, urad dal, chana dal, fresh curry leaves, green chillies, and grated ginger. Cashews are added for a mild richness and textural contrast.
The upma is served with fresh coconut chutney — the pairing is classic and perfectly balanced. Those who prefer something sweeter can pair it with a small portion of kesari bath (available separately) for the full Chow Chow Bath experience.
Ordering Tips
• Upma pairs better with white coconut chutney than with sambar — the clean, moist chutney complements the dry texture of upma more naturally.
• For a nutritional boost, ask for extra dal in the tempering.
• If you are new to upma, try it at a place you trust — the difference between good upma and bad upma is enormous, and a first experience matters.
